how to fix stripped threads

Okey-dokey...

Tightening up one of the screws for the handle on my Husky 394xp and I felt the threads strip. Yuck. I wasn't even pulling hard on the screw either.

Is there a fix for this?

Thanks.

plastic or metal?????

Okey-dokey...

Tightening up one of the screws for the handle on my Husky 394xp and I felt the threads strip. Yuck. I wasn't even pulling hard on the screw either.

Is there a fix for this?

Thanks.

Eh???? if its plastic maybe some really good epoxy like devcon... If it's in metal... Timeserts are only way to go :cheers:

Last edited: Nov 26, 2007

If it's in metal you MAY be able to run a tap through to clean the threads up, but most likely you'll have to install a heli-coil, or just drill it out to the next size bolt/machine screw and use that. In plastic, if you clean it up REALLY good, you can put J.B Weld in the hole, put the screw in, and let it harden, that's worked for me in the past, and it's cheaper than buying a replacement part!!

If it's in metal you MAY be able to run a tap through to clean the threads up, but most likely you'll have to install a heli-coil, or just drill it out to the next size bolt/machine screw and use that. In plastic, if you clean it up REALLY good, you can put J.B Weld in the hole, put the screw in, and let it harden, that's worked for me in the past, and it's cheaper than buying a replacement part!!

Thanks for the reply. That is exactly what I was thinking of doing, but wanted to hear it from someone before I possibly messed up anything. I will get on it this afternoon.

heli-coils are a joke in chainsaws... Use Timeserts....

Last edited: Nov 26, 2007

heli-coils are a joke in chainsaws... Use Timeserts....

I've always thought they were a joke period, but didn't know there was other options, other than welding and re threading the hole.

For damaged threads in plastic, Stihl has 2 sizes of insert that will convert the hole to a machine screw thread.

attachment.php

9799 543 0900 converts damaged 5mm or 6mm DG threads to 6mm machine thread. Drill the damaged hole out to a diameter of 0.335" or letter drill Q.

Apply some red LOCKTITE 262 or equivalent, and install with a 6 mm screw and nut. Turn the nut to install the insert, then remove the nut and bolt.

The hole in the part the bolt goes through may need to be enlarged slightly.

9795 003 0840 converts damaged 5mm DG threads to 4mm machine thread
Drill the damaged hole out to a diameter of 0.213" or a #3 drill.

Apply some red LOCKTITE 262 or equivalent, and install with a 4mm screw and nut. Turn the nut to install the insert, then remove the nut and bolt.
A 4mm bolt and small washer may now be used.

For example:

attachment.php

A tip from an experianced saw tech

From my Stihl dealer tech of 25 years comes a tip. When installing screws that are threaded into plastic or soft metal first turn them to the left paying close attention to when they drop into the thread, then tighten. This way you are not cutting new threads each time. Screws started in this manner can be removed many times without stripping. Other wise you are cutting new threads each time, soon to have nothing left to thread and another repair to do. Has worked for me for 20 years on stuff that hasn't been apart but is of little help when the hole was messed up by prior wrenching.

Bingo!

Gentlemen, thanks for the replies. I will need to take those part numbers to a local Stihl dealer to see if he has them. I also forgot to mention in the original post, this is into the plastic. So it looks like those inserts are the way I'll go.

Thanks again.

Plastic inserts

Husky has similar inserts to the Stihl inserts except that they use the original plastic threaded screw.

503 27 33-01 6mm
503 27 39-01 5mm

helicoils are a joke in anything.

not sure about the Timeserts. But there is a really Really good insert. you tap out the hole, and there is a solit insert that has these locks that you hit into the sides of the insert that lock the inserts into position and then can never be removed. I used these in several applications.

Ok here is a really cool tip I learned about for removing broken bolts out of aluminum. You have seen it the head of the bolt breaks and the rest of it is either flush or below the surrounding metal. You get a nut that is really close to the size of the thread. Just lay it on top of the broken bolt. Now get your mig welder and run the wire through the nut and fill in the hole welding the nut to the broken stud. When it cools just put a socket and ratchet the stud out.

Like this Tip? Hit me with some Rep!

With Great Esteem,
Scott.

scottr

Addicted to ArboristSite

helicoils are a joke in anything.

not sure about the Timeserts. But there is a really Really good insert. you tap out the hole, and there is a solit insert that has these locks that you hit into the sides of the insert that lock the inserts into position and then can never be removed. I used these in several applications.

Ok here is a really cool tip I learned about for removing broken bolts out of aluminum. You have seen it the head of the bolt breaks and the rest of it is either flush or below the surrounding metal. You get a nut that is really close to the size of the thread. Just lay it on top of the broken bolt. Now get your mig welder and run the wire through the nut and fill in the hole welding the nut to the broken stud. When it cools just put a socket and ratchet the stud out.

Like this Tip? Hit me with some Rep!

With Great Esteem,
Scott.

Scott , I remember those to be Keenserts , they're used on fixtures made of aluminum .

The time-serts are a thinwall, solid (carbon or stainless), syncronized thread insert. It's threaded in then expanded into the walls of the parent material. These were orginally designed for repairs to Helicopters, and are somewhat hard to find. Even McMaster Carr doesn't stock them! Madsen's sells, and uses them, in WA.